Colombiers, on the Midi Canal , Nr Béziers
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Every facility falls within 150 metres... pharmacy to bakery; hairdresser to mini supermarket; newsagent to tourist office... but then only 50 metres
between 4 restaurants & 2 bars. Not bad for a town boasting a Roman and Visigoth heritage, a church established in the 12th century and a population of fewer than 2,500 souls, all surrounded by
vineyards of the Enserune. |
The arrival of a reputable canal boat hire company heralded a new phase in the town's
life and economy. The newly built port was established as a major halt on the Canal du Midi - a World
Heritage Site. Colombiers is now the first call after the famous Béziers Steps, the seven Fonserannes locks
and the start of the Grand Bief, the longest stretch of the Canal without locks - 52 kilometres.
The
Port, which dominates the centre, is home to several dozen boats throughout the year; for some hardier folk
the boat is their regular home. During the summer the town attracts a regular stream of hire and private
boats of all nationalities from the length of the Canal. At the height of the season, these temporary
international captains "au fil de l'eau" jostle for overnight moorings in and around the Port,
to enjoy the town and its delights. During these months Colombiers resounds to languages and laughter from
the five continents. The bars and restaurants of the Colombiers' Canal du Midi provide a dynamically
peaceful United Nations for a lengthy and enjoyable period. The only raised temperatures can be seen on the
town's matrix thermometer and the skies remain "Béziers Blue".
On the subject of restaurants, a subject dear to everyone's heart in France, I lied. There is a fifth establishment falling just outside that radius I mentioned. The restaurant of the 19th century Chateau de Colombiers is a well-thumbed page in the gastronomic guides. Nudging the banks of the Canal du Midi on the other side of the Port, it proved too enticing for The King & Queen of Sweden who bowled up with their entourage for lunch during the summer of 2008. Who needs a Michelin Star when Royalty has ticked the box?
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The rural communities in this part of France celebrate their heritage with spirit and Colombiers sets an example with its Canal-side Bastille Day repas. Other summer activities include free evening concerts around the Port basin and at the Malpas tourist centre on the edge of town. This centre marks three engineering feats. A 13th century drain to empty the Roman-made Montady lake old "Étang de Montady" to create fertile farmland - this was done by Monks from the local Abbey and is sometimes known as "Le Gateau du Roi" - the King's Cake; the world's first canal tunnel in the 17th century and a 19th century rail tunnel. These criss-cross under the hill with absolute security and provide engineering models for college students to this day.
Another major attraction to the town is the Clinic Causse. This centre was famous for its Ear, Nose & Throat specialism in Béziers before it decamped to Colombiers 20 years ago. The Clinic has developed other disciplines and now attracts a wider international medical community and patients to its clinics, operating theatres and conferences.
Colombiers is a well-rounded town combining ingrained tradition with modern life. There are a variety of clubs and activities with sport taking a central role with floodlit rugby, football and tennis areas. The
ubiquitous Petanque, or Boules, has its own floodlit piste, a must in any rural village. But all the facilities and centres in the world would be worthless without a fully participating population.
The
people of Colombiers have allowed an international osmosis to mix into their French rural lives. The result is the immense popularity of the town to the Canal users, the commercial traders, the Clinic medicos
and patients. A wider perspective is fully embraced here illustrated by the town exuding a genuine welcome to all-comers.
Text and Photos by Adam D Phillips
Links :
Etang de Montady
Map - Midi Canal
